We are on a catamaran named Chewbacca, Captained by Marcel and his wife, Tennille. Seriously. The boat backs out of its slip, chugging gently south through the gap between Isla Carenero and Bocas Del Toro. Fourteen of us, mostly Americano, sprawl across the deck and nets of the vessel. Twenty minutes out, the water shifts between patches of postcard blue, …