Day One: En Route

The red-eye arrives at PTY, Panama City’s modern international hub, filled with duty free jewelry, chocolate and American knock-offs.  Passing through customs into the warm, tropical humidity of Panama, we are greeted by Omar Ríos, bearing a sign that says “Alisun | Tyler.” Arranged by Heather, whom he calls “the lady of Boquete,” Omar is a taxi driver, father of …